Frequently Asked Questions

Concrete floor grinding uses diamond-tipped machinery to flatten, clean, and profile a concrete slab. It is used to level uneven surfaces, remove coatings and adhesive, and prepare concrete for polishing, epoxy, or other floor finishes. We provide concrete floor grinding across the Gold Coast, Brisbane, and Northern Rivers.

Most residential rooms (20 to 40 sqm) take one day. Larger residential jobs take two to three days. Commercial and industrial floors vary depending on the area. We confirm timing in your quote so you can plan around it.

Yes. Our diamond grinders remove paint, epoxy, polyurethane, adhesive residue, and most other coatings. We grind back to clean concrete, then prepare the surface for whatever comes next.

Standard grinding produces significant silica dust. We use portable industrial vacuum extraction connected directly to our grinding machinery, capturing dust at the source. This keeps the site cleaner, protects everyone's health, and makes us suitable for occupied or partially occupied buildings including apartments, retail tenancies, and healthcare facilities.

In most cases, yes. Our dust-free grinding process uses industrial HEPA extraction connected directly to the machinery, so there is minimal dust and disruption. We protect surrounding rooms and furniture before we start. Most homeowners carry on as normal in other parts of the house while we work, and commercial clients can often keep adjacent areas operating.

We service the Gold Coast, Brisbane, and Northern Rivers. This covers residential, commercial, and industrial projects across the full corridor from Brisbane CBD to Byron Bay and surrounding areas, including Tweed Heads, Murwillumbah, Lismore, Ballina, and all suburbs in between.

Fill out our online quote form with your project details: area, location, what finish you need, and we will come back to you with a quote, usually same day. For larger or complex jobs, we will arrange a site visit first.

Polished concrete is a mechanically refined floor finish produced by grinding the concrete slab with progressively finer diamond tooling, from as coarse as 25 grit up to 3000 grit. A lithium-based densifier is applied during the process, reacting chemically with the concrete to create a harder, denser surface. The sheen comes from the concrete itself, not a topical coating, which is why polished concrete cannot peel or delaminate.

Polished concrete finishes range from cream polish (minimal aggregate exposure, smooth and subtle) through salt and pepper (fine aggregate visible, the most popular residential finish) to medium exposure (larger stones visible) and full aggregate reveal (maximum stone exposure for a bold statement floor). Grind and seal is a more affordable alternative using a topical sealer instead of full mechanical polishing.

A mechanically polished concrete floor will last the lifetime of the building with minimal maintenance. The finish is part of the concrete itself, so it cannot peel, delaminate, or wear through like a coating. Periodic re-sealing every 3 to 5 years maintains the sheen and stain resistance.

Mechanically polished concrete has a higher coefficient of friction than tiles or sealed timber, so it is not slippery underfoot in dry conditions. For wet areas, we can apply a non-slip treatment without affecting the appearance. For outdoor areas that stay wet, honed concrete or grind and seal with a non-slip additive is usually a better choice.

Yes. Most existing slabs can be mechanically polished. We assess the slab condition first, identifying any cracks or repairs needed, and determine the best finish based on the aggregate content. Older slabs often reveal the most interesting stone patterns because the aggregate has fully settled and cured.

Polished concrete is more durable, requires less maintenance, has no grout lines, and improves with age. It is also more cost-effective over the life of the floor because there are no replacement cycles, no re-grouting, and no cracked tiles. Polished concrete is also hypoallergenic and does not harbour dust mites or mould.

Sweep or dust mop regularly to remove grit that could scratch the surface. Damp mop with clean water and a pH-neutral cleaner. Avoid acidic cleaners, harsh chemicals, and abrasive pads. Re-seal every 3 to 5 years depending on traffic. That is the full maintenance routine for a polished concrete floor.

The cost of polished concrete depends on the finish level (cream polish is the most affordable, full aggregate reveal is the premium option), the slab condition, the area size, access, and whether any tile removal or surface preparation is needed first. Larger areas are more cost-effective per square metre. Every slab is different, so we inspect yours and provide a written quote with no hidden costs.

Mechanically polished concrete is ground through progressively finer grits to create a finish that is part of the concrete itself, strengthened by a chemical densifier. Grind and seal is ground to a lower grit and then coated with a topical sealer that creates the sheen. Mechanically polished lasts the life of the building. Grind and seal needs re-coating every 3 to 5 years but costs less upfront.

Honed concrete is a concrete floor finish produced by grinding the surface with diamond tooling to create a smooth, matte-to-satin appearance. Unlike full polished concrete, honed concrete has a lower sheen and a more natural, understated look. It can expose varying levels of aggregate depending on how deep the grinding goes, from a clean cream finish to exposed stone. Honed concrete is popular for living areas, pool surrounds, driveways, and patios across Gold Coast and Brisbane homes.

Honed concrete is ground to a smooth, low-sheen finish using diamond tooling up to around 200 to 400 grit. Polished concrete goes further, typically to 800 to 3000 grit, producing a high-gloss reflective surface. Honed finishes look more natural and understated, while polished concrete has a mirror-like sheen. Both are durable and low-maintenance. Honed concrete is often chosen for outdoor areas and modern interiors, while polished suits commercial spaces and high-end open-plan living.

Honed concrete has more grip than fully polished concrete because it retains a slight texture from the grinding process. For outdoor areas like pool surrounds, driveways, and patios, honed finishes provide good slip resistance, especially when sealed with a non-slip sealer. It is significantly less slippery than polished tiles or polished concrete around wet areas. We can advise on the best finish and sealer combination for your specific application.

The colour of honed concrete depends on the aggregate and cement mix in your slab. Common finishes include cream honed (minimal aggregate exposure), salt and pepper (fine aggregate visible), and full exposed aggregate (larger stones revealed). Colours range from light cream and sandy tones through to darker greys, depending on the aggregate. We can do a test grind on your slab to show you exactly what the finished result will look like before committing to the full job.

The cost of honed concrete depends on several factors: the level of honing (a light cream hone vs a deep exposed aggregate finish), the condition of the slab, the area size, and whether any tile removal or surface preparation is needed first. Larger areas are more cost-effective per square metre. Every slab is different, so we inspect yours and provide a written quote with no hidden costs.

Yes. Honed concrete is one of the most popular finishes for pool surrounds on the Gold Coast. It provides a smooth, slip-resistant surface that stays cooler underfoot than tiles or pavers and handles pool chemicals and weather without deteriorating. We hone pool surrounds, coping, and surrounding patio areas as part of the same job.

The honed surface is permanent because it is the concrete itself, not a coating applied on top. With periodic re-sealing every 3 to 5 years (a simple maintenance task), a honed floor will outlast the building.

Yes. Most existing slabs can be honed, including those with old coatings, adhesive residue, or surface damage. We assess the slab condition first and advise on the best approach. Older slabs often produce the most interesting finishes because the aggregate has fully cured and developed character over time.

Concrete is naturally thermal and absorbs and retains heat. In Queensland's climate, honed concrete stays cool in summer and can be paired with underfloor heating for winter comfort. Most Gold Coast and Brisbane homes find honed concrete comfortable year-round.

Sweep regularly and mop with a pH-neutral cleaner. That is it. No waxing, no stripping, no grout cleaning. Re-seal every 3 to 5 years depending on traffic.

Yes. We remove tiles and mechanically grind off all adhesive residue until the slab is genuinely clean and ready for the next finish. That is the difference between a surface that is stripped and one that is actually ready for tiling, polishing, honing, epoxy, vinyl, or timber. Most concrete grinders do not offer tile removal. We do.

We remove ceramic, porcelain, terracotta, natural stone, and vinyl tiles from concrete slabs using industrial ride-on and walk-behind floor scrapers. The machines handle the heavy lifting, making tile removal faster and far less disruptive than manual demolition. We also remove the adhesive underneath using diamond grinders.

Removing tiles is only half the job. Thin-set mortar, tile glue, flexible adhesive, and levelling compounds all need to be ground back to clean concrete. If adhesive residue is left behind, your next finish will not bond properly, whether that is new tiles, polished concrete, epoxy, vinyl, or timber. We use diamond grinders to remove all adhesive residue and leave a clean, profiled surface ready for the next trade.

Yes. We regularly remove tiles from bathrooms, kitchens, laundries, and wet areas across Gold Coast and Brisbane homes. We work section by section to keep the space manageable, use dust extraction throughout, and leave the slab clean and ready for waterproofing and new tiles or whatever finish comes next.

Most residential tile removal jobs are completed in one to two days, depending on the area and tile type. Commercial strip-outs typically take longer. Modern industrial floor scrapers are much faster than manual removal, and because we handle both tile removal and adhesive grinding in one visit, you avoid the delay of booking separate trades.

Tile removal cost depends on the area, tile type (ceramic is quicker than porcelain or stone), the adhesive used underneath, and whether you also need surface preparation for a new finish. Larger areas are more cost-effective per square metre. We provide written quotes after inspecting the site so there are no surprises.

Coating failures are almost always caused by poor surface prep. Epoxy applied over laitance, oil, adhesive, or a poorly profiled surface will delaminate, sometimes within weeks. Recoating after failure costs two to three times the original job. Proper surface preparation is always cheaper than fixing a failed coating.

We diamond grind or scarify concrete to the Concrete Surface Profile (CSP) specified by your coating system. This creates the mechanical key needed for proper adhesion. We also remove existing coatings, oil, and other contaminants that prevent bonding. Our equipment and process match the CSP requirements of every major epoxy and polyurethane coating system used in Australia.

We grind to the Concrete Surface Profile specified by your coating manufacturer. Thin coatings like polyaspartic and thin-film epoxies typically need CSP 2 to 3. Thicker flood coats and self-levelling epoxies need CSP 3 to 4. Slurry systems and heavy industrial coatings may need CSP 5 or higher. Tell us which coating system is going down and we will match the profile exactly.

Yes. We prepare concrete substrates for waterproofing membranes on balconies, roof decks, planter boxes, and wet areas. The surface profile for waterproofing membranes is typically smoother than for epoxy, so we adjust the grind to suit the product specification.

Every ICGC grinder runs with industrial HEPA-filtered vacuum extraction connected directly to the machine. The extraction captures silica dust at the source, before it becomes airborne. The site stays clean, the air stays safe, and we comply with all current silica dust regulations. This process makes us suitable for occupied buildings, retail tenancies, and healthcare facilities.

Dust-free grinding is standard on every ICGC job, not an upgrade or add-on. You do not pay extra for it. We built our process around HEPA extraction from the start because it is safer for our team, safer for our clients, and legally required for occupied buildings and compliance with silica dust regulations.

Yes. Our dust-free grinding process is designed for occupied buildings. We work in retail tenancies during trading hours, office buildings while staff are present, and residential towers while tenants remain. HEPA extraction keeps the air clean, we protect adjacent areas, and we schedule around your operating hours where needed.

We offer slab sawing (flat cuts through floor slabs), wall sawing (vertical cuts through walls and panels), and core drilling (circular penetrations for pipes, conduits, and services). We use diamond-tipped blades and bits for clean, precise cuts in reinforced and unreinforced concrete.

Yes. Our diamond cutting equipment handles both reinforced and unreinforced concrete. We cut through rebar, mesh, and post-tension cables with precision. For post-tensioned slabs, we use GPR scanning to locate cables before cutting.

Our slab saws cut up to 400mm deep in a single pass, which covers most residential and commercial slab thicknesses. For thicker slabs, we can cut from both sides. Wall sawing depths depend on the wall thickness. Core drilling can go through full slab depths and thick walls.

Yes. We work in homes across the Gold Coast, Brisbane, and Northern Rivers. Living rooms, kitchens, garages, outdoor areas. If it is a concrete slab, we can grind, polish, hone, or seal it. Our dust-free process means you can stay in the house while we work.

Some smaller jobs do not make financial sense for a full polished concrete finish because the mobilisation costs for commercial-grade equipment are the same regardless of area. That said, every house is different. Get in touch and we will give you an honest assessment of whether it is the right fit for your space and budget.

Our team's expertise is predominantly in large commercial, industrial, and warehouse projects for builders. For residential work, we take on larger-scope jobs where our equipment and process make the most difference. That includes complete house renovations, knock-down rebuilds, and new home builds. If you are not sure whether your project fits, reach out anyway and we will let you know.

Burnished concrete is a ground and sealed concrete floor finished at the lowest level of aggregate exposure. The grinding takes off just the top surface, so you keep the smooth cement cream and very little stone shows through. The result is a soft, low sheen rather than a mirror gloss. The term is used two ways in Australia, which causes a lot of confusion. Some concreters use burnished, or burnt finish, for a slab power-trowelled to a sheen while it is still curing. In the polished concrete trade it means the cream level of exposure on a ground floor. We do the second: we grind cured slabs. If another trade has quoted you burnished concrete, tell us what you are after and we will confirm which finish you are actually looking at.

Three things are worth knowing before you commit. Because very little aggregate is exposed, you are looking at the cement cream, and cream varies across a slab, so expect some natural colour variation and mottling. It is a floor finish, not a coating, so any cracking that develops in the slab underneath will show. And a burnished surface is more absorbent than a polished one, so sealing quality matters more. None of these are dealbreakers. They are the reason we assess the slab before quoting rather than after, and why we do not recommend burnished for every job.

It can if it is not sealed properly, and this is the most common complaint people raise about burnished floors. With minimal aggregate exposed there is more cement paste at the surface, and cement paste is porous. Oil, wine, and acidic spills will mark an unsealed or under-sealed floor. We apply a penetrating sealer that soaks into the surface rather than sitting on top, and we specify a higher-spec sealer for kitchens and hospitality. Wipe spills promptly and use a pH-neutral cleaner and the floor holds up well.

Both are ground and sealed with a matte to low-sheen result. The difference is how deep the grind goes. Burnished stops at the cream layer so almost no stone is exposed and the floor reads as a smooth, even surface. Honed goes deeper and brings up salt-and-pepper or fuller aggregate, so you see the stone in the slab. If you want the concrete to look uniform, go burnished. If you want to see the aggregate, go honed.

Hiring a hand grinder and doing a small area is possible, but getting an even result across a full floor is difficult. The hard parts are keeping the grind consistent so you do not end up with visible swirl marks or patchy exposure, managing silica dust safely, and choosing and applying the right sealer. Commercial planetary grinders and dust extraction are what make the finish even and the work safe. If you want to talk through whether your project suits a DIY approach, call us and we will give you a straight answer.

It comes down to how far the grinding goes and how much sheen you end up with. Burnished sits at the lighter end: ground smooth, sealed, soft sheen, with very little stone showing. Honed goes further and exposes more aggregate for a matte or satin surface. Polished runs through the finest grits with a densifier applied between passes to produce a high-gloss, reflective floor. Burnished is usually the most economical of the three because it takes fewer passes.

Yes. Grinding a cured slab is the core of what we do. Existing slabs often produce a better result than a fresh pour because fully cured concrete is harder and more stable. We assess the slab first, checking hardness, cracks, patches and any existing coatings, then grind and seal to the finish you are after.

It depends on the size of the area, the condition of the slab, and whether anything needs removing first. Tiles, adhesive or old coatings add preparation time. Mobilisation costs for commercial-grade equipment are much the same regardless of area, so smaller jobs carry a higher rate per square metre. Send us the details of your project and we will come back with a clear quote, usually the same day.

Yes, and we do it in-house. Most floor grinders do not handle tile removal, which leaves you coordinating two trades. We remove the tiles, grind off the adhesive bed underneath, repair the slab, then burnish and seal. One team, one quote, from demolition through to handover.

A sealed burnished floor has a soft sheen rather than a gloss, so it holds more grip than a polished floor. For wet areas, outdoor entertaining and pool surrounds we adjust the grind and specify a sealer with a slip-resistant additive. Tell us where the floor is going and we will match the finish to it.

Yes. Outdoor floors are ground to retain a little more texture for grip and sealed with a UV-stable, breathable sealer built for Queensland conditions. It suits driveways, patios, pathways and pool surrounds. Indoor floors get a penetrating, stain-resistant sealer instead.

Most jobs run one to three days on site depending on area and slab condition. Tile or coating removal adds time before grinding starts. The floor takes light foot traffic straight after sealing and reaches full cure in 24 to 48 hours. We confirm the timeline with you at quote stage so it can be slotted into your build programme.

No. We run dust extraction continuously through the grind, with HEPA filtration capturing silica dust at the tool. That means no plastic sheeting over doorways and no dust settling through the rest of the house or building. It matters on occupied sites and on renovations where people are still living in the home.

Sweep or vacuum regularly and mop with a pH-neutral cleaner. Avoid acidic or abrasive products, which break down the sealer. Depending on traffic, the sealer is worth refreshing every few years. We hand over care instructions when we finish, and we can come back and re-seal when the time comes.